![]() ![]() We have to stop passing waiters to ask for almost everything: a drink, a menu, just to order. The young waiters are friendly, but doubtless through a failure of training, not exactly proactive. Can an ambitious chef make the everyday interesting?įirst signs are not reassuring. But overseeing a utilitarian brasserie like Vervain, which must cater to those staying for multiple days and who just want to be fed, but without being bored senseless, can be harder. Running a smart, ambitious, bells-and-whistles restaurant is tough. ![]() It’s Westcott doing the thing with which he made his name. It offers a six-course tasting menu for £69-a-head. Now, here he is at Birch with two restaurants. ![]() For a while he was at Pensons in Worcestershire, which won a star from a tyre company. He ran restaurants for Jason Atherton in Hong Kong and then opened the much-admired Typing Room at Town Hall Hotel in Bethnal Green. ‘A pleasingly grainy pistachio pesto’: grilled courgette. ![]()
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